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I'm not sure if I just purchased a pair of "HID bulbs" or not. It says "HID" & "Xenon" on the packaging but nowhere does it mention the need for two dedicated HID ballasts to power like what your site mentions?

Sorry but your bulbs are not HID bulbs. You merely purchased a pair of blue-coated (ie: intensity compromised) halogen bulbs which are mislabeled to trick buyer into believing that they are of the same thing as genuine HID capsules. True that certain aftermarket halogen bulbs contain traces of xenon gas these days, but calling them 'HID bulbs' is just plain deceiving. HID capsule requires dedicated 35-watt HID ballast to run and doesn't contain any filament. HID capsule outputs 3 times the intensity, consumes less power, and lasts 5 times longer than stock halogen counterparts.

  HID Halogen
Wattage (W) 35 55
Candela (cd) 202,500 67,500
Lumen (lm) 3,200 1,550
Temp. (k) 4,300 3,200
Irradiation cr. Pure white White
Life expectancy 2,500 hr. 400 hr.

I am confused on some HID terms

Candela (cd) - The international unit (SI) of luminous intensity. The term has been in use since the early days of lighting when a standard candle of a fixed size and composition was used as a basis for evaluating the intensity of other light sources. This unit is used in measuring headlight output; basically the higher the number is the brighter the light is.

Lumen (lm) - The international unit (SI) of luminous flux (quantity of light). For example, a dinner candle produces about 12 lumens and a standard 60-watt incandescent bulb produces 830 lumens. The higher the number is, the brighter the light is.

Kelvin (k) 
- A basic unit of thermodynamic temperature (colour temperature) used to measure the whiteness of the light output. The higher the number is the bluer (or purpler) the light is.

Capsule - The Xenon gas inside the capsule and the mercurial Metal Halide Salts emits light of high degree of brightness.

Igniter - An electric current transformer that light the bulb by discharging a high electric pulse using an electric current switch through an electric current from the Ballast.

Ballast - Supplies and controls the electric current (20,000V) to the Xenon capsule


So HID lighting system refers to those crisp & bright headlights found on many luxurious European cars?

Indeed, there has been an influx of many European, Japanese and American cars that are utilizing HID technology because of the superiority that it offers. Until recent 3 years, it was almost impossible to convert a conventional halogen headlamp system into the new HID headlamp technology. The reason is that OEM HID capsule (a.k.a. D2S/D2R) requires a specially shaped base. Therefore, OEM HID capsule would not fit into a stock halogen headlight assembly.


Can HID conversion kit retrofit any conventional halogen headlight system with genuine HID?

Yes. And some fog lamp units too provided that space permits.  Our kit is a truly direct Plug-N-Play HID conversion kit. It transforms ordinary automotive and motorcycle H1, H3, H4, H4 Bi-Xenon, H7, H8, H9, H10, H11, H13, 880, 9004, 9005, 9006, 9007 headlight systems into the most advanced HID technology.

 

What other significance of this conversion should I be aware of?

  1. Beam Correction - Although our system produces accurate beam with minimal glare nor improper projection, it is always wise to check its focal length and adjust if necessary. Incorrect beam pattern endangers oncoming traffic. NHTSA & DOT received lots of complaints regarding haphazard glare from both aftermarket as well as OEM HID systems.
     

  2. Converted halogen-to-HID headlight systems are brighter than even OEM HID system HID system in a light-intensifying halogen housing is brighter than HID system in a light-diminishing OEM HID housing. This is why we can't stress enough the importance of checking your projection beam pattern after conversion.


Seems like different brands utilize different methods for H4 Bi-Xenon capsule engineering, what technology does your brand use and why?

    Electro-magnetic design - The capsule utilizes a D-drive mechanism, solenoid valve and a mini electronic controller to move a shutter linearly along the capsule to produce a high & low beam projection. Later on, a Taiwanese company uses a so-called 3-D mechanism to slide as well as tilt the capsule during high beam. Unfortunately, the more moving parts there are, the higher chance that parts can malfunction, this has been true even with top Japanese brand. Fortunately, our much improved 2008 models have been proven to be very reliable & durable and cover under our 1 year warranty.

    Dual-bulb design - This solid-state design uses HID capsule as regular and a halogen bulb as high beams. H1 halogen is chosen for its small size. Depending on your lighting system, HID & halogen (ie: low & high beam) may be turned on simultaneously for maximum illumination. Or alternately (ie: either low or high beam at any one time).


Is it safe to convert one's halogen headlight into HID?

A safety shut-off feature is a must because such conversion can cause fire! which isn't built into OEM HID Ballast.  You would be stunned when we tell you that piecing other people's OEM HID ballasts together to form a cheap hybrid kit is like playing with fire, literally. This is why there are no licensed Philips and Hella HID conversion kits worldwide. Irresponsible merchants borrow the fame of Philips & Hella and name their hybrid kits that way - which is misleading and unethical. OEM HID ballasts like Philips & Hella are strictly engineered for OEM applications, their safety features can be heavily compromised when installed on vehicles with stock halogen lighting. This is why our patented HID ballast has this advanced safety feature built-in to provide maximum safety in aftermarket applications.


How good is your kit?

Extremely good especially when you consider its exceptional quality, reliability, ease-of-use, safety feature, after-sales support and cost. We don't mislabel this as a European product by displaying labeling our HID Conversion Kit as Philips Based & Hella Based, this is another word for Phillips Style HID Kit or Hella Style HID Kit, in other words, imitation HID Kit. Our sole intention is to market a high-quality yet affordable Plug-N-Play HID kit. Our kit is 100% designed, engineered and fabricated in Japan. Certain capsules are actually German made.


My car came with OEM HID headlight system, why do I care about your products?

US car dealerships (foreign & US brands) are allowed to sell HID capsules in 4,000K range only. OEM replacement HID capsule costs $150 each! Ours cost a fraction of that but just as good quality. Our HID capsules are now available in a wide color selection: 5000K (crystal white), 6000K (crystal blue), 8000K (blue/purple), 10000K (deep blue), and 15000K (ruby purple).  D2S & D2R bulbs are available for replacement.  If your car came with HID, you only need to replace the bulbs and don't need the whole HID Kit.
 


Speaking of Kelvin temperature (K), is higher the better?
 

Not at all. Higher the "K" goes up, the lumen/brightness goes down.  We don't recommend using capsules with temperature higher than 8,000K. For show use, you may opt for 10,000K or 15,000K capsules.

 
Color Temperature Lumen (7%)
3,000 K 3,200 lm
5,000 K 3,200 lm
6,000 K 2,800 lm
8,000 K 2,400 lm
10,000 K 1,800 lm
15,000 K 1,800 lm


What alternative HID ballast technologies are out there?

Some Japanese HID systems claim to output 125% - 130% intensity when compared to a regular HID system. They achieve this by utilizing 50-watt HID ballast. But bear in mind that bulb lifespan is significantly shortened and headlamp assembly can melt and deform due to excessive heat production. Are you willing to risk these? Variable-control HID ballast can be adjusted somewhere along 25-watt to 40-watt. It does not work from 1-watt to 35-watt so the dimming effect is limited. Capsule lifespan also suffers as a result.
 


HID draws less power from a vehicle's electrical system, what's the significance of this?

Power-saving HID when compared to halogen offers the following advantages: Less energy drain on the vehicle's battery, there's also potential for enhanced performance in the car's other systems.

 


I have to revert back to halogen lighting from HID since my vehicle is a lease?

Our HID conversion kit is plug and play and is easily reversible.  The kit doesn't do any permanent damages to the wiring harness or the headlight housing.  The ballast draw it power from the stock light bulb harness and is completely safe due to the ballast only drawing 35W. Some have said that it is unsafe to run the ballast from the harness due to the wiring not having enough power.  A stock halogen is 55W and the ballast is 35W, therefore the harness is able to supply a sufficient amount of power to run the HID bulb safely.
 


What can I do to prolong the lifespan of my HID capsules?

HID capsules are very delicate & fragile components indeed.

  1. Do not touch the capsules except their base portions. This means no touching on the glass of the capsules, shafts, halogen bulbs, etc. If you do touch them by accident, use a cotton with alcohol to wipe off the skin oil carefully. (Touching the glass portion of the bulb will cause the lens to burn)

  2. Do not flash the high beams (in the case of H4 Bi-Xenon) unless absolutely necessary. And this applies to whether your high/lo beams are on simultaneously or alternately.

  3. Disable DRL (daylight running lights). This annoying feature sends insufficient voltage to the capsules when you first turn your key and as a result, only 1 of 2 capsules are usually fired up. You can 'fix' this by starting up the engine fast before the DRL kicks in.

  4. Do not turn on the engine with the HIDs on.

  5. Do not turn off the engine with the HIDs on.

  6. Do not allow the HID ballasts to be exposed to excessive water/moisture even though they are water-proof to a certain degree.

  7. Do not leave your HIDs on when car is idle. This overheats them.

  8. Do not turn them on & off repetitively. This hurts all bulbs - incandescent, halogen, HID, LED, etc.

  9. Inspect headlight units to make sure the seals are good. Make sure no moisture buildup inside the housings.

  10. Use Hyper Ground System and/or Hyper Voltage System to stabilize current & voltage. And to get the maximum intensity of your HID system.


Is OEM projector retrofit really better than halogen-to-HID conversion?

Firstly, let's get the terminology straight. What others called "HID Retrofit" actually means retrofitting OEM HID projectors into halogen housing. What they called "HID Conversion" means halogen-to-HID conversion. Other self-proclaimed HID experts try to make you think that the former method is God while the latter is a crime, when in fact that both practices are illegal according to NHTSA. But apart from legality issues, is the former method really better?

Adv = Advantage / Dis = Disadvantage

OEM Projector Retrofit Halogen-to-HID Conversion
Adv: Sharp cut-off means a no-brainer to aim even for amateurs. Dis: Blurred cut-off means harder to aim & more stray glare possible.
Dis: Sharp cut-off generates intense bright & pitch black zones that is harder on the driver's eyes. Adv: Blurred cut-off is easier on the driver's eyes and glare illuminates more road objects on the sides & on top.
Adv: Individual OEM components are legal to sell technically speaking. Dis: Conversion kits are illegal to sell due to the #108 NHTSA ban.
Adv: Quality control on OEM components are more consistent. Dis: Quality control on re-based & modified components varies with brands.
Dis: Projectors can only be sourced from junk yards, eBay or very limited online places. Adv: Conversion kits are more obtainable from foreign retailers. Many convert halogen projector headlamps into HID ones too with great results.
Dis: Components (esp. bi-xenon projectors) & labor can be very expensive. Adv: Kits (incl. hi/low beams) & labor are substantially cheaper. Mostly DIY
Dis: Installation is only for the most skillful & knowledgeable few (ie: very technique-sensitive with lots of fabrication issues if not done well). Adv: Installation is a lot more straightforward & forgiving in comparison.
Dis: Substantial modification of the headlamp assembly is required including drilling & breaking original seal. So installation is limited to headlamp size & shape. Adv: Plug-n-play installation in 99% of the cases.
Dis: Finished product looks noticeably different from stock which translates into a magnet for thieves, police & inspectors. Adv: Finished product looks nearly identical to stock halogen and only the experienced few can tell the difference.
Adv: Finished product looks really cool & unique when off (if done properly). Dis: Finished product looks plain when off (they look identical to stock halogen).
Dis: Finished product can still generate glare & blind others, just look at those projectors on BMW X5, Range Rover, etc. Dis: Finished product can generate glare easier due to incompatible reflector, focal points, lens, etc.
Dis: Only work well if stock lens is crystal clear with no fluted lines. Dis: Only work well if stock lens is crystal clear with no fluted lines.
Adv: Focal point of HID capsule is irrelevant to reflector type. Dis: Focal point of HID capsule is directly related to reflector type.
Dis: OEM components are not engineered for aftermarket retrofit applications. Adv: Aftermarket components are designed for aftermarket applications which translates into better waterproof.
Dis: This is an illegal practice acording to NHTSA. Dis: This is an illegal practice acording to NHTSA.